Over the last couple years the priorities in my life have changed. Had Matrix Garage grown big enough to hire enough employees and leave them to running it while I pursued other things I would have happily taken that route but it has generally stayed just big enough to keep me working overtime. 
I have decided to start focusing my carreer and passions elsewhere and that means that supporting the AW, AE, 4A and related communities has had to be moved much lower on the priority list. I have decided to keep the store up to provide parts that only we offer, or other things that are hard to come by elsewhere. You will notice many big name, readily available products have been taken down and we will continue to do so. It's just not worth our time trying to compete with the big corporations selling at cutthroat prices and it just takes up more of my time. 
I will try to keep providing those parts that we make or that we have developed and sell as a service to the community but understand that now this is something I do in my spare time because I don't want to leave people hanging. 
I try to make shipments and process orders at least twice a week. If you want Amazon next day shipping buy from Amazon. I will do my best to keep order time and customer service at a reasonable level but have some understanding. I am not making money on this and it takes away from my other work and other issues that are very important to me right now. 
I have always wanted to make our designs and other information open source and available to the community but to do so properly would take a lot of time making sure that models and drawings were complete, accurate, or properly described. To go through everything and make sure it was something that I felt comfortable releasing to the community. I would love to find someone who was willing to help me do this. Someone in engineering school or passionate about this to help go through 3D scans, CAD designs, and information to prepare it. If you are interested feel free to email me. 




4AGE TPS adjustment

There seems to be a surprising amount of confusion around this procedure so I decided to make a guide.

All that should really be needed is the BGB.


One thing that many people don't realize is that you are adjusting the idle switch. This is a basic on off switch. The value isn't vital. What is important is that the circuit is connected when the TPS is closed and that the circuit is opened when you just barely open the throttle.

If the TPS is adjusted too tight the ECU will think it's idling when you give it gas. This causes the ECU to cut fuel any time the RPM goes over 1600 RPM. THis can cause jerking and bucking at light throttle.

If on the other hand the TPS is too loose the Idle circuit will never get triggered causing worse gas mileage and other issues.



You will use the feeler gauges as a sort of go no-go gauge


For the thinner gauge (4AGE .35mm) and (GZE .40mm) if you don't have the exact gauge for example closest US equivelent use the next thickest size.


Insert the thin gauge and check resistance.

(Forgive my ghetto TB, I threw it together just for these pics.)


If you get continuity then the switch is on and you should be good. You do want it to be in spec but most important is that you get continuity.

If you don't get continuity you must adjust the TPS until you do.


Next insert the thicker gauge. In this case if you don't have the exact right thickeness gauge use the next smaller gauge.



Now you should measure zero continuity or infinity on some meters.


If you get continuity then loosen the TPS until you don't.


Now go back and check with the thin gauge.

Check, adjust and repeat until you have continuity with the thin gauge and none with the thick gauge. Then you are done and your TPS is adjusted properly.


courtesy of